Funny Shark Story

[blahlah]

From transworld surf (http://www.transworldsurf.com/surf/features/article/0,19929,1073235,00.html

there was another right we dabbled with, one of the premiere waves on [Easter] Island, that I think Laird and Brock tackled it back in the day. Rusty and Greg warned me about it, saying that I probably want to use booties, this and that, and that it was pretty intense. Sure enough, my first encounter out there, Rusty and Greg jumped in with perfect timing. They got out smooth through a little keyhole. I tried to follow them, like eight feet behind them, and I just got slurped off the reef. I was doing the full crab, put my hands down, and got about ten little spiny tips of urchin in my fingers and then by the time I got out there I was dripping blood and peeing in my wet suit. That’s when the local shark came in for a little checkout.

I pretty much shit myself and told the boys to form a single file line. I said, “I’ll take the caboose. I don’t have any pride or ego and I don’t want to be looking at this article a couple months later with no leg going, ‘I remember when I was a pro surfer back in the day!’ So I said, “Boys this is reality, there’s a fucking big shark cruising around! What do you want to do? I’ll take the caboose, let’s get outta here!” Rusty was all, “But he showed himself, and usually, in scientific research, if they show themselves they’re not going to attack us, so it should be alright.” I’m looking at Greg, just trying to talk him out of it, like, “Come with me!” You know? I opted to get destroyed by an eight-foot plus right--just copped it over the reef, and pretty much went in kissing land.