Scars.

[FLAROB]

Yes in florida its extreme sport in summer and into fall cause everytime u go out u see sharks exp around the inlets but thats the only time i got bite.Problem isyou cant see them the water is all merky .But were on the offseason from sharks so i can chill for few more months.I remember couple yrs ago at Ponce Inlet near daytona beach It was fun as hell lik 6-8 foot perfect ,linedd up everything was cool,Rooled up my buddy that ive been on lots of trips with is just chilling reading paper .He told me he saw some national geograpic shit as soon as he paddled out saw the sharks teeth and everything bait fish flying all around him hitting his hands.I ouldnt pay him to paddle out .So i went out got couple good waves laughing at him on shore like you fool.Then all of a sudden set wave comes through and 2 big bait faish jump out the front of the wave big ole shark jumps almost competly outta the warer after them.It was 5 feet from me .Im like fuck this peace out he wasnt frontin.I drove down 30 mins to New Symerna and it was sharkless.Florida is messed up,All major hurricanes fucked us up .The eye hitting One beach two times in 4 weeks.Needless to say some of the boardwalks are gone all are messed up crunched and pushed back all the way back to the dunes.Its straight old school geto way gotta jump down off dunes theres hardly any access to the beach like stairs or little boardwalks down to the beach,plus the water was so dirty days after if u got rides inside it felt lik surfing through trash u get big limbs .Inside of houses insulation i guess its called all kind of plastic shit .It was fuckin nasty.Enjoy Pradise.Everyone should feel blessed and thankful after the disator in Indo and asia.Id rather have a hurricane a month than one of those waves.

[worm]

slappppps,

why dont u tell that story bout how u roughed that smooth dome all up skating down diamond head to get a plate at rainbows???

laugh

[goro]

[quote="maleko"] broke my ankle never got a cast for it so it healed back crooked. doctor now says if i want a straight foot he has to re-break my ankle and put it in a cast.

this is why i surf goofy foot now, even though i'm rh...i've had my share of accidents, but my usual surf partner these days takes the cake...he's the most accident/incident prone guy i know...he's pushing 74 and i've promised his wife i'll try to take care of him out there whether it kills me or not...i guess i will and a number of you probably met him, jc, at dh...like maybe signing his petition to save the parking from the city's grand designs...which neo, myself and a bunch of other guys got involved in and got way lucky...anyways he's the one at cliffs with the orange helmet...he wears it now cause some sneaky iced out punk snuck up behind him one morn and shot his long board at the back of jc's head...besides the blow, the skeg basically scalped him...what a tuff braddha taking out a 70+ yr old guy w a false crack...the incident that takes the cake though, happened awhile ago out at makaha to him...the board basically kicked back at him and the skeg cut thru his shorts and leg...he thought it cut thru his femoral artery as there was so much blood...he knew it was bad when he got up to the beach and the braddha's face turned white... and da guy said to him...aw brah, you split your bag...it's all spilling out...or something to this effect...i forget now, but when he tells this story i still get that sick feeling in my stomache...