The Obsession of Surfing
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- Posts: 331
- Joined: Tue Mar 30, 2004 1:24 pm
- Location: 96792
Obsessed w/ surfin'
I have the mags, & the videos. (i have stopped buying them so i can surf even more)I do my surf check as soon as I wake up. I do crazy things to stay in shape for the next swell. I'm constantly watching the ocean or in the ocean. If I'm not there I start going CRAZY! I like surfing and the ocean!! i'm addicted!
Everybody talkin, talkin , talkin dat trash
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- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2004 10:03 am
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- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Jun 20, 2004 10:03 am
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Re: Obsessed w/ surfin'
Great article. 10, 6, 8, and 2 really applied to me! Even on Home & Away (don't know if ye'd know it, rubbishy soap). I'd be scanning the waves in the background constantly. Also on tv adds.
-I was out on Friday night in a club dancing with my friends when they started playing surfing clips on the big screen. -That was the end of my dancing I was just standing there totally absorbed and felt an instant longing to be out there.
Same here. The weather was scorching here for the last week and all I wanted to do was be down at the sea, although it was flat. Ended up leaving work early on Tuesday and Wednesday just to go down for a swim and be near the sea. -Nothing worse than being stuck in the city all day.
-I was out on Friday night in a club dancing with my friends when they started playing surfing clips on the big screen. -That was the end of my dancing I was just standing there totally absorbed and felt an instant longing to be out there.
maleko wrote: I do crazy things to stay in shape for the next swell. I'm constantly watching the ocean or in the ocean. If I'm not there I start going CRAZY! I like surfing and the ocean!! i'm addicted!
Same here. The weather was scorching here for the last week and all I wanted to do was be down at the sea, although it was flat. Ended up leaving work early on Tuesday and Wednesday just to go down for a swim and be near the sea. -Nothing worse than being stuck in the city all day.
- surfer9joe
- Posts: 1157
- Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2004 10:45 am
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My sat session
Walking out to logs I couldnt beleive my eyes, it was less crowded than yesterday, and still had some sets! Ended up with a decently good session, though not as good as yesterday. 3 foot with only a rare 4 footer or two. It was less people, but every wave seemed to have someone either flailing inside me, or paddling right in front of me. Session ended when a bunch of guys with tatoos and missing teeth came out together and took over the lineup, snaking and laughing with impunity.
I got one pic while checking it:
Walking out to logs I couldnt beleive my eyes, it was less crowded than yesterday, and still had some sets! Ended up with a decently good session, though not as good as yesterday. 3 foot with only a rare 4 footer or two. It was less people, but every wave seemed to have someone either flailing inside me, or paddling right in front of me. Session ended when a bunch of guys with tatoos and missing teeth came out together and took over the lineup, snaking and laughing with impunity.
I got one pic while checking it:
Why Wouldn't Ya?
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