a friend has been taking me out to castles lately...just my size for the beginner with adrenaline but DANG yesterday the swell was here, tide was coming up and the wind was howlin like a bitch in heat and it was making monster waves...they would either NOT break, or they would suddenly fold over into these torrential river runner bone crusher white water floods that made me cling to the board like a turd in a tsunami...
sucks cuz two days previous my body was finally understanding a good drop on the face..yeah a small face 3 ft or so but (hey red if you read this i'm finally 'getting it' hehe) so for two days great conditions and i felt like the learning curve was finally in an upswing...then yesterday just got the snot knocked out hehehe...good fun tho, lots of honu dudes
peace and waves
J
getting clobbered at castles/old mans
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JeSennia
- Posts: 72
- Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2005 1:20 pm
- Location: Waikiki
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