Love.

[HMARK]

You never wonder why you love this surf shit so much? I dont know about you or everybody, but I keep thinking that the heart of the matter.. Is THE HEART OF THE MATTER.

Ohhhh Emphasis on da "heart" part. I dont think that there is anyone out there that cannot say that their heart is not into it. ??? no one goes into a full on stoke w/o feeling something DEEEEEP down in your soul. You get it at the most IN-opportuned times - when you are irritated y someone and you give it up for say nothing or- you get a gift from someone that - No way - you thought you could get one from...

Oh shit- and then there comes the time when you see that 1 little grooomer is going to get the siiiickest barrel of his (whole 14 second life ) and shout HOOOOOOOO! Oh -

And then there is the time when you sat on the beach and NEVER do nothing - and that sweeet ass ocean sat there, beckoning, and she never ask for nothing but respect, whooooooo....

Not a bad ass sport we get no?

God Bless, everyone and alll winds blow off shore, and every wave a barrell....

Peace.

[slap a dap]

.......................AMEN! Good perspective hmark. Peace to ya z.

[Puerto_Rico_Surfer]

I hear ya mark, I gave up a long time girlfriend for surf (and you met her and you saw she was hot not like i gave up a dog), but my true love will always be the surf and the ocean.