ok so let me confess i've always been too chicken sh%t to go out at pipe.
when i was there the other winter and saw that photog guy nearly die after slamming his head on the reef it reinforced how mean that place can be, even when it looks oh so perfect.
it's kind of driving me crazy.
i'm trying to get psyched up for next winter, just goin out on a small day, sitting in the channel and checking it out, blah blah blah.
i like sunset alot, and don't mind it when it's pretty juicy, but hey it's sunset, not super shallow sucky backhand crowded pipe.
anybody got any handy hints, tips, things to definitely NOT do, etc would be really really appreciated.
help a brother out here guys!
Pipe problems
I used to surf a LOT of Backdoor, back when it was much less crowded than the left. Man, I got some insane days. Anyway, you've got to want it bad and go for it. The more you hold back, the more likely you are to get hurt. Hesitation will be your undoing. I've suffered fractured vertebra and a concussion out there and I surf it much more selectively and cautiously nowadays, which isn't very often.
THOSE WHO DARE, WIN.
THOSE WHO DARE, WIN.
- neosponge
- Posts: 1625
- Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2004 4:16 pm
- Location: Honolulu, HI, USA
- Contact:
I love the spot, but am very cautious and surf it only when it is small. Advice is to make sure you have confidence in your equipment and your skills. Know that you will hit the reef sooner or later. Work your way into it slowly over the course of many winters. Be committed.
I have lots of images and stories on the spot on my website. Here's one entitled, Just Like Pipeline
(when it gets too big for me, I shoot)
I have lots of images and stories on the spot on my website. Here's one entitled, Just Like Pipeline
(when it gets too big for me, I shoot)
neosponge
http://www.hisurfadvisory.com
http://www.hisurfadvisory.com
- Adder
- Posts: 166
- Joined: Tue Feb 17, 2004 6:41 pm
- Location: Texas
-
- Posts: 409
- Joined: Wed Feb 18, 2004 8:43 pm
For crying out lout adder
Enough with the questions. Come out from under the bed and just paddle out there one day. One hour surfing or even sitting and watching Pipe will answer more questions than you could pose to this board in a century. For God's sake man.
If you've got a heaving shorebreak near you, go practice there. To train for Pipe, I used to practice pulling in backside at a hollow sandbar near my home. Pull into a few suck outs and that'll help with the drop.
But on your paddle out, never look down at the reef and when you take off, never look at the reef. While you're surfing think about the highest gain you'll get out of it, not the worst thing that could happen. So in other words, think about pulling into the heaving pit deep and getting spit out into the channel with photogs and the boys cheering, dont' think about getting pitched and smashing your face on some coral, even though the later of the two is more likely, dont' think about it.
It's like gambling, you never think about how much you're going to lose, you only think about the millions you could win.
But on your paddle out, never look down at the reef and when you take off, never look at the reef. While you're surfing think about the highest gain you'll get out of it, not the worst thing that could happen. So in other words, think about pulling into the heaving pit deep and getting spit out into the channel with photogs and the boys cheering, dont' think about getting pitched and smashing your face on some coral, even though the later of the two is more likely, dont' think about it.
It's like gambling, you never think about how much you're going to lose, you only think about the millions you could win.
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