Sorry if this post offends ANY one. I have been looking at the surfing life and wondering if anyone else feels like this about what it is that surfing GIVES us.
Not to be a religious preacher, crazy, or pusher, I was kinda wondering how many of us dip saltwater H20 and 'sign da cross' before a go out?
Not saying good or bad, just curious.
I do.
I do not think I do it out of a deep religious belief but more out of respect to what i may face. I ask for protection, to let (whatevea is bigger than me) grant me the chance to see my childrens eyes and hold my wife after surf. I got a habit of saying Mahalos after surf and throwing some H20 out and saying for the boys who arent here, my gram & gramps, and couple others that i've lost over time.
No criticisim of anyones opinions on the subject will come from I. Just really curious how deep a connection I feel I have with mama ocean.
* and Haoleboy, wives are the greatest inspiration to surf you can ever have, bro, best to you and your bride. S E R I O U S L Y.
No playground jokes.

Peace to you all.