Donkey

[blahlah]

Just thought I would share a random surf story . . .

I'll never forget the first time I was called a donkey (or at least, that I heard someone call me that - it's probably happened many times and I haven't been present or haven't noticed).

It was last january, and my mom had an early flight to one of the out islands, so I volunteered to take her since it would mean I would be up extra early and then I could head out to the north shore for a dp.

I got there by like 5:30 am, so it was still dark and I headed to starbucks to kill sometime. When it started getting light, I drove over to log cabins to check it out.

Thinking it was still too early for anyone else to really be up (stupid mistake), I was nonchalant in pulling my car over far enough to leave the little side road (I think it is ke iki rd.) open for another car to pass by.

When I ran up the trail to check it, I could tell it was good - just a little overhead - and no one else out. I excitedly skipped back to my car, already a little nervous for the waves (hey - I'm no charger, I'm a townie born and raised). As I got close to my car I suddenly heard someone laying on their horn and just yelling their head off. Uh-oh. When I reached the road I saw a very angry local guy cursing up a storm and calling me every nasty name I had ever heard. My car was blocking him from heading to work.

But what I remember most is him yelling, "The last thing I need is some HEE-HAW blocking my way!!! F****** DONKEY!!!!" I mumbled my apology, and scurried into my car and out of his way. My heart, which had already started beating faster in anticipation of the waves, was thumping hard since I figured I was lucky not to get my a** beat.

Mostly, I was embarassed - I like to pretend that I'm more than just a weekend warrior out in the country, but in that moment, I was fully aware of my permanent townie kookness.

But the funny thing was, once I got in the water, I was a lot more calm than usual, and I got a couple nice nuggets that day. I think the tongue lashing took the edge off.

So next time someone calls me a donkey (or a hee-haw), I don't think I will mind as much - hopefully it will motivate me to try to rise above my usual barney status.

[Bud]

goodonya blalah. Stay stoked on surfing

[olly]

i had a good one at keiko's one time on the south shore. a guy and myself both paddling out having caught waves. he paddling out on my left when a wave rose up in front of us both.since there was no one inside me, i thought it was there just for me. we both turned together i was standing first, and both took the right, him dropping in on me. I'm a pretty chilled out guy and he was allot bigger than me, so i figured not to make a deal out of it, and just paddled back out after riding in his spray.
When he paddled back out passing me, he loudly let me know that if i ever rode BEHIND him again he would 'break your face, you f#$king clown'
i didn't even know what to say. i guess he thought i snaked him, but i don't see how he could have. i just looked at him in disbelief and avoided him for the rest of the session
so i guess if you're a donkey, i'm a clown

[maleko]

haven't been called a donkey, hee haw or anything else that i know off.

i remember surfing makaha one time and a college local boy hooted at a local heavy(as if to call him off the wave). the local heavy drops in on the guy and dives onto to the college guy. when they surface the "heavy" is screaming his head off, shoving his head and telling him to go back to town, etc, etc. i was like "WOW! (mental note) stay out of the "heavies" way at all costs today.
the next set comes and i catch it, as i'm riding the wave i start hanging 5 and am in perfect trim. so this girl looks at me and drops in on me and she just pearled. the only thing i can do is dive off my board because i can't get out of her wave fast enuff. when i surface i see her floating and immediately grab onto her to keep her head above water. i see the lifeguard running towards me. he gets there and by that time she is awake. "dazed & confuzed" the lifeguard helps her to shore and i went with cuz i'm not sure if my board hit her or hers. i'm apologizing my ass off to her and making sure she is okay. the next thing i know is that i have about 5 local heavies surrounding my ass. i'm thinking "this is where i get the shit beat out of me today". i guess my apologies and concerns for the lady is taken in a positive way, because the lifeguard tells me to go back out and surf and the "heavies" are telling me that what i did was a good thing !!! they tell me most people would've just went about thier business and not have noticed what had actually happen.

even to this day i can still feel the uncertainty i had felt before they start ed talking to meWHEW!

[Haoleboy]

Yeah..I pretty much would have had a little accident at that moment..

Suprisingly..I've actually never really gotten threatened. (Knocks wood.) When I was a kid out at Kaisers, some older guys brayed at me, and one time a guy konked my friend with his board 'cause my friend dropped in, but that was the worst. Some of the scariest looking guys ended up being the coolest too. But I never surfed Bowels...