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September 2001

Saturday September 1, 2001
7:15a-10:00a
Southeast Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 2-3 feet
Sets wave face 4, occ 5 feet (very SE)
Mostly Sunny; Light to moderate side-offshore winds

Good conditions for the default spot, caught it low tide and some fun little waves. Laniakea regular Kuna was out- he's always stoked and a great motivator. He's an excellent surfer and a new dad like me.

Later in the morning surprised to see Darrin H. and Marcos join me in the lineup. Old friends still ripping after all these years. Talked about maybe an Indo boat trip next year. No pics.

Below average session for Bud.
 
 
 
 

Sunday September 2, 2001
7:00a-9:45a
North Shore /kea/
Avg wave face 4 feet
Sets wave face 5-6, occ 7+ (NNW)
Sunny; Glassy calm turning to very light side-offshore winds

Last eve (Saturday) I came up to the country the wife and baby to get some pics at the beach and was floored to see well over head surf at the default country spot. Slept in a bit knowing there would be a big crowd on it anyway.

Solid overhead on the sets, some long walls, clean and glassy. Crowd not nearly as bad as last week (I think this bump kinda snuck in). A sweet left I destroyed and had a couple decent cracks but overall a below avg session for me. Ran into bunch of the regulars, Harry, Allen, Craig Sugihara, Eric, Dana, Marty, Rich, many other familiar faces..... snapped a few pics from the impact zone
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sunday September 9, 2001
7:00a-9:45a
South East Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 4 feet
Sets wave face 5-6, occ 7

Lost camera, vana foot
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Friday September 14, 2001
9:30p-12:15p
Southeast Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face 5-6 (mostly SE)
Mostly Sunny; Light to moderate sideshore winds

Small crowd, good conditions. Having a good session until I almost ran a guy over. He paddled into my path but the section was so sweet, I committed myself to a hard snap in the hook. Came down as he ducked the wave and I surfed right over him. Thought for sure he would be sliced up and my fins busted off, but he must have gone pretty deep. I freaked and the rest of my session went to crap. Brother Rich was on fire and killing it. Cameron, otherRich and a few of the regulars were out.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sunday September 16, 2001
8:15a-12:30p

Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6-7, occ 8+ feet (mostly SW)
Overcast; Calm conditions turning to light & variable winds

Met Neal & Cyril at the cave, then went to look at the bay, met Makani there, all but Cyril turned back to surf near the campground. Well overhead sets, but VERY inconsistent. Intermittent rain, gloomy skies and warble waves. Some long lefts to be had, but overall a disappointing sesh, especially with the buoy producing such big readings, we expected much more. We had a full camera load, hoping for epic waves.

Of the crew, Neal was scoring the best waves and looked to be having the best time, ripping up the sets and flying across long sections on his bright red sponge. The inside peak was pitching. Makani was frustrated and even went in early. Me & Rich stuck it out about an hour longer but the surf grew even more inconsistent. I had a few fair rides, but overall a poor session.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Monday September 17, 2001
9:30a-12:30p
South Shore, Big Rights
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6, occ 8 feet (SW)
Mostly Sunny; Light side-offshore winds

Headed out with Rich again (on leave from work); Swell hitting both shores but decided to hit the south side for better winds and more water time. The sets were VERY inconsistent but when they came in they were top notch. I had some sweet tube time that made up for the past few sessions; One was particularly deep and long, garnered some loud hoots from those who saw. Stoked!

Rich and I were ssurprised to run into so many old friends, did a lot of jabbering in the lineup... Steve A., Cedric N., Ronnie, Jason K.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Tuesday September 18, 2001
4:30p-6:45p
South Shore /LL/
Avg wave face 3-5 feet
Sets wave face occ 6 feet, a few lil bigger (SW)
Mostly cloudy; Moderate side-offshore winds

Boat run with Lance, his brother Lloyd and Makani. Another boatload arrived shortly after we did and made for "crowded" conditions at normally empty outer reef left point. Couple guys on longboards were getting the best waves; They each got a few nice little tube rides. I had a frustrating time-  Should have stayed on the inside section with the brothers, where the walls were faster and better lined up. Makani ended up having a good session after what he called a slow start. Was totally night time dark by the time everyone got back in the boat.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thursday September 20, 2001
1:00p-4:15p
Southeast Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6-7 feet (SE)
Sunny; Light to moderate side-offshore winds

Beautiful sunny day and we were floored to see solid overhead waves with calm winds.... Within a few minutes, Rich and I suited up and joined about 6 others in the lineup, all unfamiliar faces. The surf was sweet! Nice bowls were hooking across the middle section with long walls to attack. After an hour or so the winds picked up, moderate sideshore, but the surf stayed consistent and way above average form for this spot. Last half of our session the lineup changed and looked more "normal" with Brian, Barry, Shin, Daniel and a few other regulars. Never got crowded and plenty waves coming through. Fair session for me and Rich, few good waves but nothing outstanding.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sunday September 23, 2001
7:15a-9:45a
Southeast Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face occ 5 feet (SE)
Cloudy; Moderate sideshore winds

Rode with Rich, met Neal in the lineup. Neal made a run all the way up to the country (flat) but turned back for the windslop spot and *still* got in the water by 6am..... He was testing Makani's turbo tunnel fin on his (buckled!) longboard and was catching all the best waves. Later, Justin joined us, maiden run on his (waxless) brand new ride and really surfed well. A few decent double up sections and reforms, but overall the surf was small, mixed up, bumpy and backoffish...

Completely forgetable session for the WilliamsBros.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Tuesday September 25, 2001
6:15a-9:30a
North Shore /kea/
Avg wave face 6-8 feet
Sets wave face 10-12 feet, occ bigger (NNW)
Sunny; Light side-offshore winds

A fair session in the season opener for me & Rich. We met Cyril on the beach and paddled out into quite a crowd, the sets were rather inconsistent and when they did come in, there were lots of less than capable surfers bailing boards everywhere. Conditions were good, and the waves were not lining up very well but there were a few smokers to be had. Not many spots catch this direction well so *everyone* was here. We joined a big segment of the regular crew mixing it up with countless kooks and some "names" like Kalani Robb, Bonga, etc. Our shaper Glenn Pang was out ripping it up, along with Glen Minami, Ben Aipa, Tony Higa. Also stoked to see friends Roger S., the Ching Bros, Dana, Cedric N., Miles, and many other familiar faces. Lots of the regulars telling us "shoulda been here yesterday....." Oh well.

Nice waves, but they dropped steadily throughout the morning and the crowd grew even larger.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Thursday September 27, 2001
12:45p-4:30p
North Shore
Avg wave face 5-7 feet
Sets wave face 8-9 feet (NNW)
Mostly sunny; Variable to moderate offshore winds

Not the greatest surf there could be, but enough of the elements came together to make this the best session for me in some time.

Our schedules didn't jibe so BrotherRich headed out solo at 10am and gave me the eyewitness scoop from the default N swell spot - kinda bumpy & disorganized but well overhead with decent direction. Later, I pulled up just in time to see him gouging
multiple off the tops on an 1.5xoh wave and then tear past two long sections; Drawing a high line before carving long bottom
turns, flying out from behind the whitewater that had would-be drop ins pulling back from the shoulder. Clearly, the shakedown
run for his brand new gun (7'9") was going well....

On the beach, I chatted with "paddle glove Rick" (sans gloves today) who had just run home to switch his 6'4" for a 6'10" -
said the waves were improving but still very "fat" with the high tide....

Bunch of tourists gawking at all the big turtles in the shorebreak as I jumped in. The clouds and rain from a 15 minute
squall had just cleared and it was bright sunny beautiful. In the lineup, the usual glut of clueless boatriders were noticeably
absent. The occasional sneaker from the west kept the small crowd well spread out.

As the afternoon progressed and the tide dropped, the surf got more consistent, the conditions improved and the crowd dwindled to just  few of us! One other regular and I were shaking our heads in disbelief as we took our pick of the sets, rode them all the way across, then paddled back out to the peak with no one there. Unreal. My wave count was going off the chart and at nearly 3 hours my arms were starting to feel it, but I would not even consider going in yet. I fully kooked on a bunch of waves but it did not overshadow my stoke on many others. I was consistently nailing solid snaps and pulling clean, smooth figure 8 cutback rebounds between sections.

Around 4pm, the lineup at the peak began to fill in to normal levels so I sat at the middle peak, surfed out and looking for a
last wave. The middle- inside section was firing on the low tide; Head high walls just reeling. Ended up staying out another half
hour... great fun.

Good surfing to you,

Bud
 
 

Saturday September 29, 2001
7:45a-10:30a
Southeast Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 4 feet
Sets wave face 5 feet (SE)
Mostly Sunny; Light side-offshore winds

Flat in the country so I headed to the default windslop spot. Almost didn't go out.... watched from shore for about 15 minutes, feeling unmotivated & sick of this place after a shitty summer; Especially coming off a solid session in the country.

Waves were ok.... chest to almost head high on some sets (very inconsistent). Conditions were good, light winds & fairly smooth. Overall, much better than average for the "old faithful" spot..... - - but it was still town surf. Not sure if I was glad I went out or not. Poor session.