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October 2000

Sunday October 1, 2000
7:15a - 10:15a
North Shore - Pipe/Bdoor
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6-7 feet
Clear skies; Calm, pure glass

I drove; we (MM, me & Rich) looked from end of Dillingham field all the way to Sunset. Finally jumped into surprisingly uncrowded Pipe/Backdoor (was packed an hour later). Had a good fun session in superb, low tide- oily smooth conditions. Some freak in a red hui jersey & black trunks paddled out then lectured the crowd with threats of implied death to anyone showing "disrespect"
 
 
 

Tuesday October 3, 2000
4:30p - 7:00p
South Shore
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6-7 feet
Mostly clear skies; Moderate offshore winds

Got a last minute call from LL for a boat session out to "his" outer reef spot so I scrambled to wrap things up at work and grab my stick. Met LL and his brother L at the boat ramp at 4:10pm; We had the tiny boat loaded up and in the water in about 3 minutes.

Late season south swell had been hitting all day. I had my digital camera wrapped in a t-shirt and 2 ziplock baggies. LL did his usual kamikaze gauntlet run- powering the boat through pounding surf and knee deep water. It still is a white knuckle ride but I've learned to trust his intimate knowledge of this reef. After we secured the boat (he finds the same underwater outcropping
to anchor to, every time!), I stayed back to snap a few pics with the digital. Hard to do with the boat rocking like a carnival ride.

Once again we scored an empty lineup and super fun overhead lefts. The tide seemed extra low and the coral heads occasionally brush your feet while sitting. On a previous session here, I was sitting near the point and my leash snagged this one that is particularly close to the surface- when the next wave passed by me, I was yanked under water in an instant. With a well known resident mano always lurking, talk about being scared shitless.

The brothers were tagging every wave within reach and having a blast. I opted to wait out by the point for the occasional long bomb that came through. About an hour into the evening, as I was racing a fast section I heard a loud *POP* - my
momentum almost stopped and felt my board go squirrely like the fins were gone. I made it past the section and kicked out swearing- yelling to LL that I had hit something in the water! Not knowing *what* I had just hit, only that it felt very solid, I was leery about getting off my board. I paddled further in, then flipped my board expecting to see fins dangling & torn out.
Instead, I saw that almost all the glass on one side of the bottom had been torn off. Water flowing & forced into the perpendicular crack in the glass had ripped it clean off. Several weeks earlier, this board had been creased badly by a
west side cruncher, a straight crack across the bottom on one side. It flexes with every duck and I have been expecting it to break for some time. At least it was still surfable for this session, well kind of. Felt like I was dragging an old tennis shoe in the water behind me :-)

I stuck it out with the half glassed board till dark, still having fun. LL even got a nice shot of me going off the top with it (the print you can see the missing glass, but in the scan it's not very visible). The brothers stayed out well past dark again. I swear those two are nuts.

Good surfing to you,

Bud

Saturday October 7, 2000
7:30a - 10:30a
South Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6 feet
Partly Cloudy, clearing; Moderate to strong side-offshore winds

Met MM and friend Jeff for a fun sesh. Almost no crowd even with a contest going on at Cliffs. Dropped off for a while, but overall stayed pretty consistent. First time with new board, gotta get used to it again. Feels "floaty" & seemed to bog off the bottom on occasion, much like the last one that just broke. It's a mirror image of the last one, so I expect to be back in synch with it soon.

Monday October 9, 2000
2:30p - 5:15p
North Shore - /kea/
Avg wave face 4 feet
Sets wave face 5 feet
Partly Cloudy; Moderate/strong side-offshore winds

Me & Rich hooked up for few waves. The buoy was solid all day with 8'@14 sec readings, but it never showed. Still, we had fun before it got packed in the eve. We went leashless, we both swam only once. Rich was snapping all over, scored a couple small cover ups on the lefts too. Edrick from Kahuku was power killing the tiny surf. Quater mile out and somehow I got stung by a bee. Felt an intense burning behind my left shoulder, thinking it was man o war I didn't touch it. Wincing in pain I paddled over to Rich to pull the tentacles off, that's when he saw the stinger embbeded & pulsing in my skin. Freaky.

Much more in tune with the new stick this session. Turned into packed frustrating circus for the last hour or so.

Friday October 13, 2000
10:00a - 12:15p
North Shore - Rocky Pt.
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6 feet
Partly cloudy; Moderate side-offshore winds, increasing to strong

Quick solo run out to country. Saw Lanis wasn't catching at all, so I blazed up to Rockys. Grabbed my stick without checking the surf and was treated to some fun, punchy head high surf. Didn't surf all that great, but a very satisfying sesh anyway. Scored a nice 3-4 sec barrel, squeaked through a couple sections completely buried then straightened out just before it closed out. Mikala Jones, Elijah Young were ripping it up.

Saturday October 14, 2000
8:30a - 10:45a
South Shore - /dhl/
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face 5, occ 6 feet (at the peak)
Mostly sunny; Moderate side-offshore winds, increasing

Met MM; Looked pretty decent from shore, wierd east angle. Turned out to be shitty, shifty peaks that usually mushed out. I went leashless and had to swim twice. I had one memorable left, couple solid snaps, but otherwise kooked out. MM was killing it & Francine was tearing up the inside section.
 

Wednesday October 18, 2000
4:30p - 7:00p
South Shore
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face 5 feet
Clear skies; Light to moderate offshore winds

Another invite from L for a boat ride surf session with him & brother LL. MM joined the passenger list last minute too. Surf was tiny, thigh to chest high- a few bigger sets- but the conditions were superb- crystal clear water and mostly light offshore winds. Tide was super low, reef poppin up all over and the inside shelf was fin scraping shallow. We were able to take off very close to the exposed reef off the point and the clear water let us get a good look at the stuff we surf over when it's bigger.  We had great fun messing around and flying past/floaters over fast little sections. I seemed to be the bringer of bad luck, each time I paddled to the point, the best waves swung past to to the inside, and when I paddled over to the inside...well, of course they peeled off the point.

Right in front of the 3 of of us, MM pulled off a killer frontside lip bash grab board mid air 360 spin then stomach landing then stand back up... I've seen him pull it off several times before, but it's always amazing.

A stoked session but this small surf is getting old. Looking forward to the NW juice forecasted for this Sunday.

Good surfing to you,

Bud
 

Friday October 20, 2000
3:00p - 6:00p
North Shore /kea/
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 5-6 feet
Mostly sunny; Light to moderate side-offshore winds

Me & Rich checked the whole upper coast, then ended up heading back to Lanis. First hour was nice- small crowd, nice conditons and fun suf. Last 2 hours became packed and the surf deteriorated. Rick kept us laughing with his opinions on Brazilian women and their attributes/attitudes, brought on by a thong clad young lady on a bodyboard.

Many other friends and familiar faces in the lineup including Harry C, Alan Wickland, and even Allen Sarlo. Rich was surfing well, slalom course and "sharing" a wave or two. Mediocre session for me.
 

Sunday October 22, 2000
11:00a - 2:30p
West Shore /bondage/
Avg wave face 5-7 feet
Sets wave face 8-10 feet
Sunny; Light to moderate side-offshore winds

Tuesday October 24, 2000
3:00p - 6:00p
North Shore /kea/
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6-7 feet, occ 8 early on
Mostly sunny turning cloudy/raining; Light to moderate side-offshore winds
 

Friday October 27, 2000
3:00p - 6:00p
North Shore /kea/
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6-7 feet
Mostly sunny; Light to moderate offshore winds

Me & Rich eve sesh, nice day; surf was surprisingly hollow. Colin scoring lots of barrels in the small surf. Rich was surfing solid as usual, I was out of synch, out of position and constantly getting drilled. Bad day for the budster.

Saturday October 28, 2000
7:15a - 9:00a
North Shore Pipeline
Avg wave face 5-6 feet
Sets wave face 7-10 feet
Partly clear skies; Light side-offshore winds

Jumped in with Brother Rich for a morning run to the country. Voicemail from Sponge said he'd be at Pipe before sunup. After checkng most of the coast, we watched the lineup at Pipe/backdoor, saw Neal tag some nice ones, then decided to join him and the dozen or so that made up the pack.

Waves were kinda everywhere and the low tide made the sections extra fast. Conditions were pretty good, light winds and typical "morning sickness" warble. Neal had long since gained his place high in the pecking order with the few who took off deep on the west bombs, among them Jack "The Ripper" Lindholm. He's still an awesome surfer.

Some sets were close to 2xoh at the peak, and there were several standouts who had some serious tube time. Rich and I were pretty low key this morning, content with mostly scraps... but even 5-8' faces at Pipe are nothing to sneeze at. I saw 2 snapped boards during the short time we were out; About an 90 minutes into our session Rich took off too late and his new board was crunched in half too. Fully bummed. He sat on the beach for a while but I was having another kook fest so I didn't feel bad about going in. MM had joined the lineup about this time so I went to the truck and grabbed the digital camera for a few shots from shore.

Good surfing to you,

Bud
 

Tuesday October 31, 2000
9:15a - 12:00p
South Shore
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 5-6 feet, some bigger
Mostly clear skies; Moderate offshore winds, turning strong sideshore

Solo sesh. Re-juved & re-stoked on my board. Good day- punchy head high peaks & workable walls, only a couple others out. Pulling off deep fig 8 roundhouses & long floaters all morn. Did I mention stoked?