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May 2002

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Wednesday May 8, 2002
1:45p-5:00p
South Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 4 feet
Sets wave face 5 feet
Mostly sunny; Light to moderate sideshore winds

Me & Rich leashless, full on kook fest for Bud. Seem to be in a rut, swim 2x

Saturday May 11, 2002
7:45a-11:00a
South Shore /hh/
Avg wave face 3-5 feet
Sets wave face 6-8 feet, a few lil bigger (SSW)
Overcast; Light variable/sideshore winds (SE)

Neal early-pau already, yakkers, 1sts & 2nds, better inside, sharkola, dude cut up on jetty. poor sesh agian for bud

Sunday May 12, 2002
7:30a-11:00a
East of Tents
Avg wave face 6 feet
Sets wave face 7-9 feet, occ bigger sets (SSW)
Overcast, hazy; Calm to light variable/sideshore winds (SE)

Me & Rich, no one out till last 30 minutes. inconsistent. turtle & baaracuda fest. video. another poor sesh. in & out the reef tricky but  no probs

Thursday May 16, 2002
6:45a-9:00a
North Shore Rocky Point
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6 feet, occ bigger, inconsistent (W)
Overcast, hazy; Calm to light variable/sideshore winds (NE)

Solo bunglefest, again.... jockey games with aggro kook... cut up feet, reef bounce tailbone. no pics

Saturday May 18, 2002
6:45a-9:00a
South East Shore dhl
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face 5 feet (SE)
Mostly cloudy, clearing; Moderate side onshore winds (SE)
Me & Rich.... average windslop....other Neal, Mario.... Rich test drive TC redline FCS, totally stoked and ripping... another poor session for Bud, happy B-day to me
 
 

Sunday May 19, 2002
12:00p-3:15p
East Shore nb
Avg wave face 3-5 feet
Sets wave face 6 feet (SE)
Mostly cloudy, clearing; Moderate side onshore winds (SE)

Me & Rich met MM after checking out pr (complete VAS).... went over to nb- could not believe the difference (just as MM had said), great conditions and the most fun little waves we've had in long time. Waist to slightly overhead, clean, very consistent and only a few others out. MM was on fire with his new board, saw him plant a couple airs too. Rich once again was in top form; killing the lefts and rights and completely sold on his new TC FCS fin set. First  hour for me was a complete loss, I've been on a streak of poor surfing performace and seemed like another was in store. Things started to turn around for me about half way through the session, getting better and better rides. Never really had anything spectacular, but considering how bad I've been surfing, putting three consectutive moves together was like clearing a major hurdle. A couple nice backside floaters and one particular straight up blast come to mind. Bottom line- we all had a great day in unexpectedly excellent conditions and killer headhigh sandbar surf. No pics.

Sunday May 26, 2002
7:15a--9:45a
South Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 5-6 feet
Mostly sunny; Light variable winds

Arrrg a week w/o surfing... busy at work, feeling a bit out of shape. Buoy 2 was solid for 2 days but the south swell wasn't much- inconsistent and crowded. Rich was leaving when I pulled up. Waves were ok but seemed to be dropping all morning. Beautiful (HOT) sunny day. Poor session for Bud.

Monday May 27, 2002
7:00--9:30a
North Shore /rp/
Avg wave face 4-5 feet
Sets wave face 6 feet
Clear skies; Dead calm turning light variable later

One word best describes todays sesh - "magical"

Paddled out to middles where a lone bodyboarder was scoring chest to head high barrels, one after another. Not a hint of wind - pure glass, crystal clear water and empty! Where was everyone? We chatted a bit but he went in after I'd been out 30 minutes. Small, fast breaking but perfect little waves all to myself. Ultra low tide. Two and a half hours I went in, just as the wind started to show....

Wednesday May 29, 2002
3:45p--6:00p
North Shore /chunks/
Avg wave face 5-6 feet
Sets wave face 7-8 feet, a few bigger sets
Mostly sunny; Light to moderate variable winds

Hooked up with Makani for an afternoon session & off season NW swell. Wasn't expecting much but were blown away when we saw the surf. Winds & conditions varied greatly every few miles. Checked all the way up to VLand (packed!) but ended up back down the coast for the lack of people factor & higher wave count expectation. Surf was good fun, sometimes closing out but there were some great waves to be had. Crowd picked up as the conditions improved, unfortunately the surf started dropping just as fast. First part I had a bunch of good rides, last hour I kooked hard.