1:00p-3:30p
"Laniakea" - North
shore
avg wave face-----------4-6
feet
sets wave face-----------5-8
feet, some bigger
overcast, light offshore
winds
2:10p-2:25p
"Pyramid Rock"
- East Shore
avg wave face-----------2-3
feet
sets wave face-----------3-4
feet
switching overcast to
clear, variable winds
7:30a-10:45a
"Pyramid Rock"
- East shore
avg wave face-----------3-4
feet
sets wave face-----------5-7
feet
overcast turning mostly
sunny; strong onshore winds
connected with neal &
makani for a morning sesh on the windward side.
no activity in the country,
but powerful tradewinds always means NWS
small craft warnings
and windslop out east. the day before, i got an
"e" from makani telling
me about picking up his new stick, almost at
the same time as i got
mine. . . we were itching to get wet.
makani was on his way
to pick me up when neal buzzed via cellphone to
confirm location. we
checked Northbeach first and it looked ok, but
opted to hook up with
da sponge and more familiar surf-slop at
Pyramids. neal was in
the surf probably an hour before we got there
and when we pulled up
we saw him flying across the middle section on a
blown-out but decent
looking overhead wave. we're on it. . .
it'd been a while since
the three of us had hooked up. . . it was nice
that only 2 others were
out. the conditions were out of control but
the waves were consistent
and much better than i expected. even in the
blazing onshore winds,
neal seemed content and totally relaxed; i
could see the concentration
in his expression as he worked the lefts
from the tip of the point.
neal always takes his water time very
serious; especially on
this day when he had to leave earlier than me &
makani.
makani was all smiles
and milked wave after wave to the shore. we were
hootin for each other
as we jockeyed for incoming sets and yelled the
- you go!...no YOU go.....no,
no it's yours- banter.
as for me, after a few
"adjustment" waves, surfing my new stick was
like being released from
shackles. super responsive & light. . .
.can't wait to cut loose
on some clean open faces!
good surfing to you,
bud
6:30a-9:00a
"Laniakea" - North
shore
avg wave face-----------4-5
feet
sets wave face-----------5-7
feet; bigger sets in the first hour
overcast with some rain;
blazing sideshore winds
crammed at work on Tuesday
to get in a Wednesday morn session. could not hook up with the "crew" so
i headed
out early & solo.
for now, my new stick rides in the cab of my truck (fits nicely with the
passenger seat laid back).
naturally, in my rush to the surf i got every damn redlight, and stuck behind inconsiderate tourists at every unpassable stretch of highway. the art of stopping in the middle of traffic to read a map must be taught somewhere; it's always pleasant to drive behind someone who's generally oblivious to what's going on around them ;> aarrrrggghh. oh well, i still wave & smile at 'em when i can pass.
the cloud cover hid the
coastline as i crested the hill to the country, so i couldn't see the surf
till i pulled up to Lanis. only 2 other cars in the lot at least meant
it would not be crowded for my quick session. a group of friends who are
also frequent dawn patrollers at Lanis were the only others out. we exchanged
"howzits" & remarked that the waves weren't
*that* bad; at least
it was consistently head high and there were some nice sections to work.
the wind made it difficult to catch waves in the already disorganized surf. couple times kicking out, i caught my board right before the wind flung it into my face. plus it was friggin cold. i *almost* regretted not wearing a wetsuit.
the other guys left together and for a while i had the place to myself. later a young kid came out & noticed the label on my board, turned out he's a nephew of my shaper.
after struggling the first half of the sesh, i finally seemed to be getting in tune with the new board. i realized how much i was holding back on the board i had borrowed from my brother. finally, i was starting to feel like my pre-broken board self again.
meaty swell on the way but the winds are supposed to keep blasting.
'loha,
bud
8:00a-10:45a
"Secret Spot" -
West shore
avg wave face-----------5-7
feet
sets wave face-----------6-12
feet
overcast, some rain,
powerful offshore winds
6:45a-10:30a
"Secret Spot" -
West shore
avg wave face-----------5-7
feet
sets wave face-----------6-12
feet
overcast, clearing late
morning, powerful offshore winds
Check
out Neal's website for the low down on our surf session. I've
been a bit too bizzy lately.
6:00a-8:00a
"Makaha" - West
shore
avg wave face-----------2-4
feet
sets wave face-----------3-5
feet
hazy, light onshore winds