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June 2001

Saturday June 2, 2001
11:00a-1:30p
East Shore /nb/
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face 5 feet, few lil bigger
Sunny; Light onshore winds

Fun sesh with MM out east. Small but rideable, we had it to ourselves for the first hour. MM pulled off one of those off the lip flip thingys again, plus a few airs, amazing. My new board seems to be working well, can't wait for some surf to test it out. This summer is sucking so far. No photos.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Saturday June 9, 2001
1:30p-4:15p
South East Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 2-4 feet
Sets wave face 5 feet
Sunny; Strong sideshore winds

Solo run out to the default town spot. NWS keeps pushing back the arrival of this SW bump so I waited till the afternoon with the hope of catching some forerunners. Nada, just yer typical windswell - the windsurfers were loving the conditions though. The surface conditions & winds fluctuated greatly, mostly in the poor for surfing category. Waist to chest high with occasional head high sets, it was very inconsistent but the crowd was almost non existent. Still very surfable and overall I had fun, the new board is working GREAT. Just wish I could beat this persistent cold. Ran into Lena and Francine. No photos.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sunday June 10, 2001
12:30p-3:15p
South East Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 4 feet
Sets wave face 5-6 feet, a few lil bigger
Sunny; Strong sideshore winds

The swell didn't appear big enough to wake up our key summer spots and there were a bunch of parades/festivities/surf contests that would make an already crowded town weekend a nightmare. After much discussion about where to go, I drove with MM out to the default town spot. The bigger sets were VERY inconsistent but it wasn't a total loss, the crowd was small and very mellow. Seemed like everyone ( about 6-8 people) was content to sit on the inside and let me and MM have our pick of the sets. MM was ripping as usual, another stoked surfer on his new set of FCS K-fins everyone is raving about.

On the way down to the beach, I noticed a group of 3 guys and a girl behind us, awkwardly carrying boards and watching where we entered the water. It took about 30 minutes but I finally saw them appear at the edge of the channel. They all were paddling like newbies & having a hard time staying positioned on their boards, but they followed the right path through the reef and made it out all smiles and dry hair. They hung on the channel, slipping side to side as they tried to balance sitting on their boards. This spot has a pretty strong current & it didn't take long for the wind & current to send them right into the lineup. I sliced up a nice right and kicked out next to the newbie girl who happened to be almost all the way inside after scratching for a few waves. She smiled and I smiled back as I quickly paddled past her. About then an inside peak doubled up- it was about head high and broke right in front of me. After I ducked it, I turned to see what happened to the girl- she popped up a few seconds later, white faced and fear in her eyes, desperately trying to hold onto the board. Another wave came through and I sat up after I ducked it - there she was, having big problems trying to stand on the almost dry reef (low tide) after being washed all the way in. She didn't appear to be hurt, but clearly not happy.

I paddled out a few yards and told one of her friends - "hey your girlfriend might be in trouble, she's on the reef" and pointed in her direction. He looked at me as if I was speaking a foreign language so I guessed he didn't understand english. I thought I should go in and see if she was OK, but right then a set broke just outside of everyone and after I ducked it, he was gone too. I looked back and saw all four of them on the reef, pretty much dragging their boards behind as they did the reef dance- shorebound. Bummer, not a single wave caught between them. Well, not intentionally. No photos.
 

Wednesday June 13, 2001
2:00p-4:45p
South East Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face 5 feet, occ 6
Partly Sunny; Strong sideshore winds

Solo, typical windslop. Fun, but overall a forgetable session. No photos. When are going to have a decent summer swell!!!???
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Saturday June 16, 2001
6:30a-9:45a
South East Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face 5 feet, occ 6
Partly Sunny; Moderate sideshore winds

Headed out pretty early, super low tide when I first paddled out. Didn't look so hot from the cliff but I was pleasanlty surprised, especially having it all to myself for well over an hour. Typical side shore trades roughing things up, but it also make for nice double-ups. Solid chest to head high sets, rather inconsistent but with no one to compete with, super fun. As the high tide filled in, it got even better. A couple other guys joined me but never had more than 5 people the whole time I was out. My new board is really working great, I eneded up staying out much longer than I expected.... late for work but no biggie. No photos.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Sunday June 17, 2001
7:00a-9:30a
South East Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face occ 5 feet
Partly Sunny; Light to moderate sideshore winds

Picked up Rich (his first surf in several weeks) and met Neal, who was in the lineup since 5am! Smaller than yesterday, but much cleaner (lighter winds). Stayed uncrowded and had a surprisingly fun session for all 3 of us. Rich was ripping despite the long absence and being dogged by a newbie. Neal was longboarding, grabbing many lefts and staying deep for the long shots. Me & Rich each had to swim once, my loose board hit the dry reef before I got to it and dinged the very tip of the nose, minor repair job. Took one photo.

 No new swell action in sight.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Wednesday June 27, 2001
3:00p-5:30p
South East Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 3-4 feet
Sets wave face occ 5 feet
Partly Sunny; Light to moderate sideshore winds

Hmmm, today ended 10 days out of the surf, probably the longest stretch since I had stitches in my foot  This has to be the worst summer in some time. The forecast is looking a bit better, though not anything spectacular

Solo run to the default windslop spot. Turned out to be decent fun; Anyway, I just HAD to get wet. Waist high, to a few almost head high at the peak; Condidtions were better than normal. For the first 45 minutes I had it to myself - a couple other familiar faces joined me but never more than 5 total in the lineup. Felt a bit out of synch and flubbed a few easy ones - I had to swim for my board 3 times. But I did have a couple I was stoked with - one wave in particular I popped 4 solid, consecutive off the lips before the wave closed out over the shelf.
 
 
 
 
 

Saturday June 30, 2001
2:15p-5:30p
South East Shore /dhl/
Avg wave face 2-4 feet
Sets wave face occ 5 feet
Mostly Sunny; Calm to very light onshore winds

Arrrg. Stifling heat (light Kona winds), but beautiful conditions. Ocean was bathtub warm and crystal clear... woulda been nice to have some waves. South swell was another bust. The default spot was over run with weiners. Looks like this endless flat spell has everyone looking for something rideable and they've all "found" this place. Had to swim for my stick on my first wave! Just a short swim, and the tide was high enough to swim over the reef, but what a bummer way to start the session. Kind of set the tone for the afternoon. We need some action soon.